When Fay told me to go to Dabbous before it became impossible to book a table, I listened to her and went with Francois Simon who was visiting London for a reportage. It was a total revelation. Ollie Dabbous’ cooking is just brilliant. Elegant without being pretentious. Fussy without being irritating and perfectly exquisite. And not expensive which is a miracle given the level of excellence. And of course Fay was right. It is now impossible to get a table except for weeks or even months ahead which is too bad as I would love to eat there on a regular basis!

The top picture is of a sensational tartare which I had as a starter. Above on the left is the prettiest and most delicious braised veal cheek I’ve ever had while on the right is a sweet chilled verveine consommé poured over strips of cucumber and served as an entremet before the baba. Both fabulous..