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19
Jun

hair pastry 2 copy

Well, there had to be a redeeming feature. The boutique hotel we had just arrived in in Gaziantep was awful, a little like an Ottoman Adams house. Everything had an abandoned and dusty feel, even the dug up lane leading to it. Still, there was one advantage. I had spotted a qataifi (or sha’r in Arabic, meaning hair) maker right opposite. So, we decided to escape and go there to see how the pastry was made.

I had seen the pastry made in Syria where the production is partly automated. The batter is poured into a long horizontal funnel with tiny holes along the bottom and at the switch of a button, the funnel which is fitted on an electric handle turns over the hot plate dropping the batter in thin parallel lines. I was curious to see if the Turks made it any differently although I didn’t expect to see it all made by hand with the help of a small rather beautiful metal container fitted with a row of mini funnels on the bottom.

hair pastry-cup 2 copy

The pastry maker holds the cup using one finger to block the holes — as you can see you need long fingers- and once he’s poured the batter in the cup, he releases his finger and with amazing speed and precision, rotates the cup round and round over the hot metal plate, dropping the finest strands of batter which sizzle as soon as they touch the plate. He overlaps each row as he moves the cup inwards, making pretty loops, until he eventually covers most of the plate. Then, with a deft movement, he picks up the strands of pastry and starts again. Here is a little clip of the qataifi maker at work.

[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/12684038[/vimeo]

The pastry is used to make kunafah (different in Turkey from Lebanon but I will reserve this information for another post!), borma where the pastry is rolled around pistachios (again two versions, Lebanese/Syrian and Turkish) and ‘esmalliyeh (a wonderful clotted cream pie). I have also had it used in savoury preparations, notably at Il Convivio in Rome where the chef wrapped it around brains and fried it. Amazing.

And the good news was that we were able to move hotels the very next day to happily ensconce ourselves in Anadolu Evleri where I stay normally. We missed our pastry maker but we had Imam Cagdas with his fabulous baklava, lahmacun and kebabs right next door. Life was good, if only for two days!


There is 34 comments on this post


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    A lovely entry, really reminds me of Antakya’s Uzun Carsi (the Long Market) as it is the same way they make the pastry strands for kunefe, fascinating to watch, amazing to smell:) Many thanks for sharing, brought a lot of wonderful memories of home! Turkey is calling for sure ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    thank you ozlem. i liked the market but didn’t like the rest of antakya much. and the food in syria is much better ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    Thank you Anissa. My grandfather used to do trading with Syria apparently; I would love to make it there one day.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    Too bad about the awful accommodation.

    But this pastry thing is so cool. I’ve always loved those thin thin strands of pastry but had no idea what it was called or how it was made.

    Borma is a favourite of mine (I’ve always pointed at it behind the glass case to order it… how nice to now know what it’s called). And some years ago, we also had a fabulous savoury restaurant dish made with chicken, creamy goats cheese, capers, olives and sundried tomato housed inside shredded phyllo.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    shredded phyllo or hair pastry? sounds delicious anyway.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    I’m not exactly certain what it was. It looked like shredded wheat which makes me think it was hair pastry. It was fabulous.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    it must have been.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    What a fascinating entry and video! In Azerbaidjan (where my stepmother comes from), there is a very famous sweet, which is similar to kunafa. It is called Sheki halwah (named after the town that is renowned for its rice flour, from which they make the pastry.) Here is a Russian blog I found that has great photos of the whole process, including making of dough. As you can see, they do it in a very similar manner.

    Now, I have a strong craving for kunafa! ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    wow. thanks vivtoria. this is amazing. shame i can’t read russian. did i tell you that my nephew is married to young lady from baku? went there for the wedding. can’t say that food was amazing ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    What an interesting, multicultural family you have! ๐Ÿ™‚
    What sorts of food did you have there? I know that in Baku it can be tough to get decent food, mostly thanks to the Soviet legacy of institutionalized cafeteria fare. ๐Ÿ™

    Seeing the process of making qataifi is just incredible. The arm movements are so precise. I was attempting to make markouk last weekend (used an upside down wok as a saj), and while it tasted good, I know that I have to practice, practice and practice before I can get a perfectly even, thin round. I also made pita from your Baking book, and it was perfect. Such a great recipe to follow!


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    Well, just re-read my comment, and wanted to clarify lest I sound like I am praising myself. Your recipe was perfect. My pita shaping skills need work. ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    you should try making saj borek from the baking book. it is easier than markouk and as good, in a different way. and if you want plain thin bread, try the yufka. very good. as for the food in baku, i had all kinds of different things and they were all invariably bad with lost of mayonnaise. yukky. so glad you like my pita recipe. ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    It’s compulsive viewing, am really enjoying the videos and images of dishes being made, throughout your blog.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    thanks so much kavey. am so pleased to know you are enjoying my posts.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    where can I buy this pastry maker cups? will you please let me know how much it cost and can i get it online please in two to three days I am appreciate it and thanks for this please give me answer for my question as soon as possible

    thank you very much


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    i am afraid you will have to go to gaziantep to get one ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    Hi anissa just visited ur blog it’s lovely.and I like ur hair pastry method soooo much it’s really helpfulwatching the video.thank u.also I lyk to know where u bought that hair pastry maker(that cup)$which u have as a picture above??please lemme know where I can get it .thanks a lot


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    see my reply to rashmi below. i bought it at the sweets maker in gaziantep ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    Where is Gaziantep? Can I get it online ? How much the price?

    Thank you for providing me more information

    Rashmi


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    You can rรฉcipe knefe dough, how make recipe dough liquid for bruma or. knefe, tank yo


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    sorry i don’t have a recipe!


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    Hi anissa,

    Nice post, i moved to baku recently from Egypt. Would you please tell me where to buy hair paistry in Baku.


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    sorry semio but i cannot help ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    Hi Anissa,
    I always wanted to make qataifi at home. I tried plastic decorating nozzles, bags, on the pan, but they don’t look or even taste like real one I tried when I was in Turkey one time. My son even made a fixture with plastic pipes with holes, but it didn’t work so well. Do you know by chance any website that i can buy that funnel with holes for making qataifi?


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    sorry but i don’t know any site that would sell it. i bought mine from the sweet-maker in gaziantep ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    for those interested .tulumba.com (kadayif )dessert pattern maker can be ordered by internet .it cost 139.99 ok . good luck !!


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    wow, healthy profit. it can’t cost that much in turkey ๐Ÿ™‚


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    How could I order the hair equipment


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    How could I order the kinafah hair pastry equipment


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    hiii, been looking for GREAT from scratch recipe of this kataifi hope theres someone who could help me … looking forward thank you!


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    hiii, been looking for GREAT from scratch recipe of this kataifi hope theres someone who could help me โ€ฆ looking forward thank you!


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    je la recette de kadaif mais je n’ai pas de mini-entonnoirs je voudrais savoirs ou je pourrais commander le matรฉriel de pรขtisserie

    dans l’attente, merci!


  • Warning: Undefined array key 36 in /data/40/0/131/109/783598/user/802494/htdocs/anissahelou/wp-content/themes/Anissa/functions.php on line 377

    je ne suis pas sure ou vous etes mais si au liban, le meilleur serait de demander a un patissier libanais ๐Ÿ™‚

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